Contemporary Sleepwear: An Elevated Slumber

Here’s a question: How much of your before-bed time is ritual and how much of it is routine?

Routine vs. Ritual

I’d say that the distinction between the two is simple. With routine, maybe you throw on your comfy clothes (or just ditch them all together); you scroll through your phone out of habit until your eyes are tired; or maybe you fall asleep on the same side of the bed- always in the same position.

With a ritual, you’re putting your hair in its protective or proactive nighttime coiffe; you’re washing your face and thanking your skin for being so good to you (#MarieKondoSkincare); and you’re putting on something that is a joy to sleep in.

I don’t know if it’s age, or sleeping on the road as often as I have been, but lately I’m come to create (and revere) new nighttime rituals for myself. When all other factors are strange- or at least in flux- my solace, my escape and my home has become the things I do to wind down at the end of the day, and what I wear on my body when I do it.

A collaboration between Ft. Lonesome and The Glad Hours for The Bunkhouse Hotel Group

Style & Ease (but mostly ease)

Now, if I had to point to a single fashion moment that has had the most influence on me, it was coming home every Saturday afternoon after my weekly morning gallery & studio visits with The Contemporary Austin (then known as Arthouse), watching Breakfast at Tiffany’s* and seeing Holly’s sleep mask and that dress she threw on when Paul, Baby came to apologize to her. Now, typically this is where I insert a hyperlink, but I’m going to embed the video just to make sure we’re all on the same page before we move along.

From dead asleep to rather chic ensemble in no time flat. That level of effortlessness and style has been the ultimate wardrobe goal since then, and I think I’m getting closer and closer to the promised land.

Every instance of pajamas designed to double as out-of-the-house-wear calls back this scene for me, which is why the PJs seem to have dug such a deep hole into my heart. These sleep ensembles combine the style of Holly Golightly, the ease of a Hoarders Muumuu and the warmth and security of a Self-Care Sunday dialed up to an 11.

Robes by The Sleeper designed to be worn wherever.

Your Pajamas are Your “Good Clothes”

Now, we’ll turn back to the idea of ritual and Pajamas as actual loungewear with another question: What do you wear to sleep in and laze around your home on a Sunday morning? If you’re answer is “some fleece drawstring PJs I bought from Old Navy in college” or “whatever’s on top of the (relatively) clean clothes pile”
I’m going to say that you’re doing yourself a disservice.

We all know that the act of undressing after a stressful day can flip a immediately improve your mood because you are safe, in your comfort zone and can relax. But let’s get into the benefits putting on clothes to change our moods:

Desmond & Dempsey’s Capsule Collection of Sleepwear

The Sleep Mask:

A sleep mask is a full stop on the day. Pulling a sleep mask over your face says “The phone is away. I am in bed and I have no intention other than to sleep.” As a traveler, there are few joys that compare to the combination do-not-disturb sign and nighttime that you can carry around with you. And, it’s like a hug for your eyes.

The Sleeper “Black Tie” Pajama Set

A Set of Soft Pajamas:

A pajama set it a commitment to relax. Sure, there are sects of folks that somehow get more aggressive when wearing pajamas, but for the most part the most you can be in a set of good pajamas is “miffed.” If you want to raise your voice, you’ll have to change back into your old cotton tees.

Dressing For Life is Not A Fashion Show, It’s an Act of Self-Love

Finally, you deserve the best version of yourself. If you’ve ever been told “why are you wearing that at home where nobody can see it?” (or if you’ve ever thought that to yourself) please remember that life is now (NOW).

So do not treat it like a run though where you save your “good clothes”, your good grooming and your best self for when there’s an audience. That is a subtle way to live your life dictated by others.

And wearing nice clothes around the house is a small act of rebellion against the tyranny of the norm that you can practice every day.

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* Again, as I’m sure I’ve said before. I have issues with Breakfast at Tiffany’s as a film and my love for it is complicated. Don’t take this undying love for the clothes in the film as an endorsement of racial caricature or any other of its flaws. It’s just pretty.

How Should I Feel About the Ubiquity of Python Shoes?

Python shoes are everywhere. Have you noticed? Maybe it’s because I have been living in a bubble, but I’m taken aback by how popular the shoe is. An odd pair in a Chloé store is a fun touch, but this feels like a collective cry for help.

Rag & Bone Aslen Snake-Embossed Leather Tall Boots and Dries Van Noten Louis-Heel Leather Knee Boot

Chloé Python-Embossed Combat Bootie and Saint Laurent Charlotte Python Pointed Bootie

See, the thing is that I just can’t decide if I like it or not. Python, unlike warmer animal prints and leathers (like leopard or a sleek leather in luggage), is very white, jarring against most outfits and fully dated. So is this a trend that we’ll all soon regret? Or should I be all for ignoring the taboo of following seasonal trends because, in the end, everything is temporary and embracing the absurdity of python is a way to accept the fleeting nature of existence?

Am I thinking too much into it? This is sort of like one of those songs that you’ve never heard before then all of a sudden, it’s EVERYWHERE before you get a chance to decide whether or not you like it. (I’m looking at you, Mz. Grande).

Gucci Emma Python Slide Mule

These Gucci slide mules are kind of wearing me down. I think I might love them?

And the dark brown spots on these Manolo slide sandals are large enough that they almost feel like an abstracted print designed after python.

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Giving In

If I AM embracing it, here are a few pairs that I could see myself with.

Brother Vellies Python Holiday Mule

Brother Vellies- This kitten heeled mule has such a small profile that the python serves as a small but impactful accent in the overall look. I’d likely pair it with a wide leg trouser, so it’d truly just be a pop of python toe box when in motion. Or maybe posing for the ‘gram.

Yeezy Python Ankle Boot

Yeezy- The oblong heel and fitted profile of the shoe makes this quite a statement heel. I don’t think you can rely on the python print itself being the special element in a design, and this silhouette really does it for me.

Chloé Scalloped Python Printed Boots

Chloé- The firey color-blocked gradient along the scalloped edge of this Chloé mule makes the python almost feel like a neutral in this design. The shoes got a retro feel and, again, the addition of the two other design elements gives it a distinctive point of view.

The Case Against "Vegan Leather"

I’ll preface this post by saying that in these times, I am wholly against moral absolutism and thusly do not judge those who either are passionate about Vegan Leather as an alternative to leather or who just don’t care either way (because there are an infinite number of things to concern yourself with in the world).

Now then. Most “Vegan Leather” is just plastic. It’s fancy plastic, but it’s still plastic.

Like water bottles and tires, we have to think about what this product will become once it has served us in its function as an accessory or trim and moved on to the landfills. Leather takes anywhere between 25 and 50 years to decompose in a landfill. Depending on the fiber content of Vegan Leather, the answer greatly varies. Now, to be fair, I am speaking of the most commonly used synthetic leathers made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and polyurethane. There are constant innovations in the manufacturing world that are bringing plant-based alternatives to leather to the market.

Where production is concerned, the merits of natural and synthetic leathers can be debated endlessly. And, unless everyone adheres to the same moral code (how to you feel about killing animals? Do you care more about clean water than harming a sheep?) then we’ll never come to a consensus. Traditional leather tanneries like such as Bole are making strides to become industry leaders in sustainable innovation and new companies like Piñatex are creating leather alternatives for designers looking vegan alternatives that are truly doing good for the environment.

So it’s all a toss-up, really. Until products made of vegetable leathers like Apple Mat and MuSkin are widely available on the market and over shadow PVC and plastic leathers, I’'m sticking with my animal products. hat being said, I’ve still got to be cognizant of my impact and to consume leather products mindfully. For me, the two most important factor are that they are, ideally, a natural byproduct of agricultural activities and that the animals have been treated humanely.

Whether you prefer vegan leather products to spare animals of any cruel treatment or prefer leather products because they’re natural and will, one day, return to the earth, reading up on the impact of that choice and being conscious when you buy it always a good thing.

Then again, nothing really matters. So do whatever you want.

Tongoro Studio: Building An African Dream

Sarah Diouf is my favorite apparel designer and motivational Instagrammer.

She launched Tongoro Studio in 2016 and makes no secret of how tirelessly she has worked and (continues to work) to make it one of the most talked about brands coming out of Africa at the moment. In her own words, Tongoro Studio is “a 100% Made In Africa label providing clothing that offers style-conscious consumers quality, variety and convenience, at affordable prices.” To me, though, it is so much more.

It has to be said that often, the industry’s treatment of products “Made in Africa” has a patronizing tone and feels like a Westerner’s on a goodwill mission. Sarah’s designs are so good, her connection to the continent is so rooted in love that her mission to boost production in Africa is just a matter of fact, and not some charity case.

Now, let’s talk about her designs. In short: magnificent, all around.

The Ngor Dress, Fitini Bag and Zanzi Ensenble at www.Tongoro.com

The Tongoro signature is voluminous designs with prints that call back to its Dakar, Senegal roots that are, in a delightful twist, rendered in breezy chiffons and fluid cottons. The Ngor dress is a simple, off-the shoulder style with balloon sleeves that makes for a great pool cover up or summer date-night look. The Zanzi ensemble is a all-around dream; A loose kimono duster. A tie front crop top. High-waisted wide leg trousers with pockets. Ugh! It’s my ideal vacation wear (though, in my dream life, I’m in a tropical climate, so I’d be in crop tops and chiffons year-round).

If following Tongoro Studio on Instagram is buying into the dream of being on holiday year-round, then Sarah’s personal Instagram is a visually stunning testament to all the non-stop work and sacrifices it takes to build that easy-breezy lifestyle brand. Peppered between images of her designs premiering at Lagos Fashion week or a clipping from a Vogue write-up are Sarah’s testimonials about the doubts she has dealt with, her collection editing process, her identity struggles, the importance and power of self-reliance, and the incomparable joy of having one of your biggest dreams come true. Sarah is no stranger to hard work and her lofty ambitions demand it of her. In sharing all of this, Sarah is inviting us to dream on a grand scale and do absolutely everything required to see it to fruition. Tongoro Studio’s pieces are a treat for the body and Sarah’s words are a gift for the soul.

To paraphrase Kanye, to be a fan of Tongoro Studio is to also be a fan of yourself.

5 French Cool-Girl Brands That Aren't Sézane

We get it. All the cool girls in Paris wear Sézane. Who wouldn’t, it’s perfect.

But if you want to look like one of those gals that’s ~too cool~ to be caught anywhere near the 9th arrondisement (too many tourists), here are some other brands to look out for:

Sessùn

I’d describe Sessùn as Sézane’s old best friend from art school. They’ve got similar aesthetics and price points, but there’s a thread running through Sessùn’s designs that says “I’m making art out in the country and came into town to get a coffee with you and see what’s happening on Rivoli”

Instagram: @Sessun

A super casual way to let everyone know that you ARE the party. By PATiNE available in various colors

PATiNE-

Those tri-colored “La Boum” shirts you’ve been seeing all over? Yeah, they’re from Patine. Described as “future good vintage,” this online-only boutique sells shirts that are truly instant classics.

Instagram: @PatineParis

www.patine.fr

Make My Lemonade

“Prêt à Porter et Prêt à Coudre,” this brand sells both ready-made clothes and sewing patterns. All the way up my alley. The best part? They embrace their creative community by hosting workshops on paper flowers, embroidery and tons more.

Instagram: @MakeMyLemonade

www.makemylemonade.com

Fauvette

Fauvette makes some lovely little leather accessories. The bags are beautifully structured yet simple designs that have playful closures that are a subtle way to add some fun to your wardrobe. Designed by former Optician, Claire Rischette, this line is the result of a career change and is now housed in her Parisian storefront and studio she shares with jewelry brand Louise Damas.

Instagram: @Fauvette_Paris

https://www.fauvette-paris.com

Sandro Paris

Sandro’s got a full wardrobe to choose from- apparel, accessories, shoes. I’m currently wondering who I have to become to wear these leather trousers. The styling on their site alone is Parisian Cool-Girl turned up to an 11. Dad Shoes & Trench Coats. Statement Bags & Sweatshirts. Blazers & Tee Shirts. If you scroll far enough, I’m sure you’ll find hair tucked into a turtleneck.

Instagram: @SandroParis

sandro-paris.com

This list is in no way comprehensive, so if you’ve got a hot tip on your favorite French Brand, drop me a line. I’m never not window-shopping. Et voilà, mes chers. If adding more French girl style to your wardrobe is on your to-do list, these shops are not-to-be-missed, whether you’re buying directly from them or just getting inspired.

Here’s a playlist for your shopping.